COSMETIC CHEMISTRY AND COSMECEUTICS
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- Versione italiana
- Academic year
- 2022/2023
- Teacher
- SILVIA VERTUANI
- Credits
- 9
- Didactic period
- Secondo Semestre
- SSD
- CHIM/08
Training objectives
- This course is the only compulsory course of the entire degree course, aimed at understanding this specific area of products in the purchased dermocosmetic of a pharmacy, parapharmacy, or other authorized distribution channels. The skills of this course can then be completed by courses of your choice activated on this specific subject. The training objectives of this course aim at the knowledge of the market of cosmetic products, the global knowledge of the cosmetic product from its composition to its quality, its functional assumptions. Through the notions provided in this course, the student acquires the ability to guide the public in the choice of cosmetic products, ability to assume responsibility and independent deductions from proven scientific bases. The technical knowledge of the product allows to manage the dermocosmetic repair with competence and professionalism, retaining the customer. In addition, the theoretical skills acquired during the course can help to encourage students to continue their studies in this specific field, or to get involved in basic and applied research activities to be carried out at the university, or at companies during any thesis internship. The teaching is complemented by mandatory practical laboratory exercises and thematic seminars held in collaboration with experts in the field. The skills acquired in the practical part of the laboratory allow the student to know the basic aspects of formulation, the main production methods on a laboratory scale of some cosmetic forms. The sensory evaluation of raw materials and prototype formulations that contain them allow the student to learn a technical vocabulary useful in the expert advice of the product.
Prerequisites
- The student must have acquired and assimilated the following knowledge provided by the courses of General and Inorganic Chemistry Organic Chemistry, General physiology and human anatomy. Microbiology. Teaching takes reviewed the district of skin and subcutaneous as the application of cosmetic product, so knowledge of the anatomy and physiology of these sectors is necessary for the functionality of the product. The course deals with the chemistry of all major classes of cosmetic ingredients, present in the most common cosmetic forms. The understanding of its function and action is linked to the understanding of the chemical structure of belonging. Understanding a cosmetic label requires knowledge of the INCI nomenclature, similar in part to the IUPAC name of the ingredients, since it refers to 50 specific rules for names in the text of the law of 2006. Based on these assumptions in order to study and realize a profit this matter the skills acquired in the courses listed above is essential.
Course programme
- The course is divided into two parts. One frontal part in the classroom (48 hours) and one practice (24 hours)
1. The theoretical section will deal with COSMETIC CHEMICS (Total 36 hours) and 2. COSMECEUTICS (Total 12 hours)
-Course introduction and products for topical use. (2 hours)
The social and economic value of the cosmetic product. The various types of products for topical use that can be sold in pharmacies: Definition of Pharmaceutical, Medical Device, Cosmetic.
- Cosmetic ingredients: functional and technological (2 hours)
The concept of functional ingredients and claim ingredients. Ingredient with physiological and/or technological function.
- Cosmetic legislation and INCI nomenclature rules (3 hours)
Labelling of a cosmetic product. Legislation From Directive 768/76 to European Regulation 1223/2009. Technical annexes. Animal testing
INCI nomenclature rules. The 50 rules of the INCI Nomenclature Convention, with particular reference to botanical, synthetic and biotechnological derivatives.
- Cosmetic forms (3 hours)
Classification of cosmetic forms. Main monophase and biphasic forms.
- Lipochemistry (14 hours)
Introduction to the concept of emollience. Skin lipids. Chemical classification of lipids. Hydrocarbons: paraffinic Glyceric esters. Triglycerides, fatty acids. Vegetable oils. Main vegetable oils. Quantitative composition of the main fixed vegetable oils, technical data sheets and examination of some examples of certificates of analysis. Lipids PEG and PPG derivatives, chemical classification, function and nomenclature.
Introduction to the chemistry of silicones. Silicon, silanes, silicates, siloxanes. The main silicone raw materials used in cosmetics. Reading of INCI of cosmetic products containing the main ingredients.
- Rheological additives. (3 hours)
Chemical classification and origin (synthetic, vegetable, marine)
- Preservatives (3 hours)
Illustration of Annex V. Conservation and chemical, physical and microbiological stability of cosmetic products. The EAC. Chemical classification of preservatives. Alternative preservatives to Annex V
Reading cosmetic product labels to highlight the main and most frequent preservative systems used.
- Surfactants and surfactants (3 hours)
The principles of cleansing. Classification of surfactants. Anionic: carboxylates, sulphates and sulphonates. Amphoteric. Non-ionic. Cationics and Conditioning Mechanism. Concept of SAL. Other ingredients: perlants, dyes. Dandruff-proof.
- O/A and A/O emulsions and emulsifiers (3 hours)
Classification of emulsions, and emulsifiers. Main differences between the two types and cosmetic function. Nods to the technological aspects for their preparation.
COSMECEUTICS (12 hours in total divided as follows)
Leather: structure and functions. Collagen, elastin, hyaluronic acid.
Definition of cosmeceutical (1 hour)
Kligman's three postulates.
- The evaluation of effectiveness (1 hour) in vitro and in vivo
- Functional cosmetics to combat skin aging and photoaging and oxidative hypothesis. (4 hours)
Antioxidants for topical use (vitamins A, C, E) and polyphenols.
-Sun products and UV filters (2 hours)
PRACTICAL EXERCISES
Exercise of reading INCI labels of oleolites present on the market in the various distribution channels. Sensory exercise on the main lipidic raw materials dealt with during the course (4 hours)
Students through touch and visual, olfactory and sensory evaluation of hydrocarbons, glyceric and non-gliceric esters, waxes, fixed vegetable oils and silicones can consolidate the concepts illustrated from a theoretical point of view.
Preparation of 4 formulation frames in the laboratory
Hydrolyte with deodorising function
Emollient oil composition with elasticising body function
Emulsion O/A
3 Hydrogels Didactic methods
- The course consists of (a) classroom lectures and practical laboratory exercises and technical seminars. In order to ensure the best possible understanding of the subject, the teacher makes use of media aids such as videos that the teacher has made to show the preparation of the main cosmetic forms in the laboratory. In addition, in order to research the INCI nomenclature and the corresponding function of the ingredients, and the chemical structure, the teacher uses free databases that are illustrated to the student, who can independently proceed to individual study through these subsidies. There are 24 hours of practical laboratory exercises (carried out in groups) which can be accessed only having attended at least 75% of the hours of frontal lessons + 8 hours of seminar activities (compulsory attendance).
CLASSROOM CODE
n7ybf5n Learning assessment procedures
- The examination is ORAL. The final grade will be derived from the average of the following three parts:
1) The student may optionally submit a project work on a cosmetic product of his/her choice, for which the student will have to describe the cosmetic form, recognise the legislative requirements of labelling, and describe for each ingredient the chemical class to which it belongs, the cosmetic function, and any other discussed safety and efficacy aspects. The project work can be presented in PowerPoint or Word, on computer or on paper. The project work will be awarded a grade between 18 and 31. If the student chooses not to submit project work, the lecturer will propose a cosmetic product label for comment.
2) In addition to any project work discussed, the examination will be oriented towards the assessment of the topics covered in the entire programme of the cosmetic and cosmeceutical chemistry syllabus. The correctness of the answers and the ability to present the required topics will be evaluated from 18 to 31. Knowledge of the INCI names of the main ingredients of each category is required.
3) As regards the assessment of the practical part, the behaviour in the laboratory will be assessed, and the student is required to know what he/she has learnt in the laboratory and to describe the steps for obtaining each cosmetic form prepared in the laboratory. Those who are unable to attend in person will be able to discuss the experience from a theoretical-practical point of view by means of the videos of the experiments that the lecturer will illustrate in class. The part of the workshop will be given a mark between 18 and 31 which takes into account behaviour in the workshop in terms of respect for safety rules, order in the assigned work areas and practical skills.
The final grade will be derived from the arithmetic mean of the three parts above if they all achieve at least a pass mark. If one of the three parts is deemed insufficient, the teacher reserves the right to fail the examination. Reference texts
- 1. AA.VV Il Manuale del Cosmetologo. Edizione Tecniche Nuove
2. Cosmeceuticals Allured Publishing
3. Giulia Penazzi. Come sono fatti i cosmetici. Guida pratica alla lettura dell’INCI. Edra Edizioni 1 e 2 edizione
4. E.Penazzi, MT Ascioti, N.Posa, Reparto dermocosmetico- Guida all’uso. Edra Edizioni
5. Hossein Sedgi- Fitocosmesi-Scienza e Tecnologia delle preparazioni cosmetiche. CEC editore
6. Giulia Penazzi, Alberto Coletti.
Beautiful Skin Edra Editore
7. Didactical material prepared by the teacher
Material provided by the teacher for the study of integration.
